A few Russian wood houses still stand in the center of Manzhouli, and the free flow of cash and vodka lends a certain exhilaration to the place, but most points of interest lie elsewhere. The closest attraction, only 10km (6 miles) west of town, is the oldSino-Russian border crossing(Guo Men;tel.0470/629-1562;8am-5pm; admission ¥20/$3). If you want your taxi to drive onto the premises, they'll charge you an extra ¥5 (65¢). Nothing much happens here anymore, as most Russians enter China through a new border crossing farther north, but you can still watch trains pass across the border between China and Russia. There is a small exhibition that tells the history of the area inside the building. You'll need your passport to get in. Access is by taxi only (20 min.; ¥20/$2.25 round-trip). Atrade market (Zhonge Hushi Maoyi Qu),is located in a pink Russian-style building beside Guo Men; it opens in the morning, and all kinds of products, from food to furs can be bought there, including fake ones.
Dalai Hu-- Also known as Hulun Hu (Hulun Nurin Mongolian), this immense lake emerges seamlessly out of the landscape 36km (22 miles) south of Manzhouli -- a liquid equivalent to the grasslands that surround it. Dalai Hu is China's fifth-largest lake (2,399 sq. km./936 sq. miles) and a popular feeding ground for rare bird species. A small resort on the north shore offers boating, swimming, and fishing. In pleasant weather vendors sell barbecued fish and shrimp skewers fresh from the lake for ¥2 to ¥3 (25¢-40¢). The lake is also open in the winter, but much less interesting without boat access.
The only way to get to the lake from Manzhouli is by taxi (1 hr.; ¥100-¥150/$13-$18 round-trip). Admission at the main gate, just north of the resort, costs ¥5 (65¢) for each person including driver plus another ¥10 ($1) for taxi entrance. A boat ride on the lake costs ¥20 ($2.50) and motorboat ride costs ¥10 ($1.25) for 10 minutes.
Hulun Buir Grasslands (Hulunbei'er Caoyuan)-- No other grasslands in Inner Mongolia can match the Hulun Buir, an emerald expanse shot through with radiant patches of wildflowers that spreads over the hills outside Manzhouli. The grass here is twice as long as anything found outside Hohhot, and people are scarce. Nothing this beautiful lasts long, though: The season for seeing the grasslands at their most vibrant runs only from late June to mid-August.
The only organization in Manzhouli officially allowed to arrange tours of the grasslands isCITS(inside the International Hotel; tel.0470/622-2988;fax 0470/622-4560; open 8:30am-5pm). They offer different types of tours around the grasslands. Three-day tours (¥600/$75 per person) include accommodations in a yurt, horse riding, a mutton banquet, and a visit to Dalai Hu ; 2- and 5-day tours are also available. Other attractions around Manzhouli, such as Golden Shore (Jin Hai'an) and the Birds' Kingdom (Wulan Pao), may be added to your tour. If you speak Mandarin and don't mind modest facilities, a better option is to negotiate a stay with one of the local families who approach visitors at the railway station. If you decide to do this, be clear about the details and withhold final payment until your stay is over. Visit www.mzlcits.com for more information.
The Hulun Buir is the backdrop to one of China's most authenticNaadamfestivals, held every summer, usually between mid-July and mid-August. Call CITS for details about the date and location.
Zhalainuo'er-- The turn-of-the-20th-century Russian-built open coal mine(meikuang)is a hideous scar on an otherwise pristine landscape, but few other places in Asia can offer what it does: the chance to see 22 steam trains from the 1920s and 1930s in still-chugging order. CITS (see Hulun Buir Grasslands, above) offers multiday tours which include a ride on one of the working engines; the price depends on which attractions you choose. It is possible, however, to visit on your own. The mine is 18km (11 miles) south of Manzhouli, and admission is free. The best time to visit is between October and March, when the steam is most dramatic. A bus to Zhalainuo'er (30 min.; ¥3/40¢) leaves from the intersection of Si Daojie and Xinhua Lu in Manzholi and drops you in the center of town. From there, hire a taxi to tour the mine for ¥30 to ¥50 ($4-$6). The easier but pricier option is to simply hire a taxi in Manzhouli for ¥70 to ¥100 ($9-$13).