Locals dismiss talk of anairport,which government officials hope to build southeast of Yushu. However, a Xining-Yushu-Lhasa flight is a definite future possibility with the recent investment of ¥500 million ($63 million) from the national government, allegedly for an airport. Check with CAAC in Xining for the latest details.
The normalbustrip should take around 20 hours, though if your bus breaks down, it could take 40 hours! The road climbs steeply out of Xining, passing throughYueri Shaninto vast grassland country. There are few towns along the way; take plenty of provisions. AfterMaduo,you enter an expanse of alpine lakes and gradually ascend to a pass at 5,082m (16,670 ft.). If you aren't overcome by altitude sickness, stop for fresh yogurt and perhaps some fillingtsampa(roasted barley flour mixed with tea) in grasslands south of Qingshui He. The last major town, 48km (30 miles) before Yushu, isXiewu,where a dirt road branches east toShiqu(95km/60 miles) andManigangein Sichuan. If several passengers for Sichuan disembark, a minibus can be arranged at the Xiewu crossroads.
The bus station is on Shengli Lu. Turning left (north) as you exit the station, you pass the post office on your left; it's a 10-minute walk from there to the main T-junction with Minzhu Lu, which runs left (west) towards the Yushu Hotel and Zhiduo, and east towards Xiwu and Xining. Jiegu Si commands a hill northeast of the T-junction.
Xining buses offer either separate hard seat (not recommended) or sleeper service. Hard-seat buses, ¥96 ($12), depart 8:30am and 9am. Newer sleeper buses, ¥139 ($17) depart noon and 1pm. Book your ticket well in advance -- youdon'twant to be stuck at the back of the bus. A minivan to Shiqu can be negotiated for ¥300 ($37), but most drivers are reluctant to go farther. The cheapest option is to get up early and hitch a lift on a truck to Shiqu (¥30/$3.70) or Ganzi (¥70/$8.70). The trucks depart from near the large yak statue, just west of the main T-junction.
Fast Facts
Banks, Foreign Exchange & ATMs-- None available.
Internet Access--Qingzang Wangbais two storefronts east of the Yushu Hotel (open 24 hr.; ¥3/40¢) per hour). TheDongwangjiao Wangba,located next to the Jiegu Hotel, offers similar 24-hour service for the same rate. Dial-up is16300.
Post Office-- The main post office (tel.0976/8825024;open Mon-Fri 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat-Sun 11am-4pm) is just north of the bus station. Overseas calls can be made from theDianxinju,west of Yushu Binguan on the south side of the street.