Le Cafe Igosso
You'd never pick it, but a flight of stairs just north of an ugly flyover leads to Beijing's finest Italian restaurant. Start with an apertif on the second-floor bar, which stocks an impressive range of spirits, before heading up to the small, intimate dining area, with dark wooden floors and furnishings. Service is unobtrusive; quite an achievement in such a small space. Both the chef and the owner are Japanese, so seafood dishes are compelling, particularly their appetizers. The seabream carpaccio marinated in seaweed has a liquid freshness, and the mustard roast duck is excellent. Move on to pasta for two: from the regular menu, the crab and olive spaghetti is competently delivered, or choose from the handwritten specials menu. Rosemary chicken, served with roast potatoes and fresh rosemary, is the pick of the main dishes. The wine list is simple but adventurous, although selection by the glass is limited. On the right night, this is Beijing's most romantic dining experience.
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| Cuisine | Italian | |
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| Hours | Daily 11:30am-2am | |
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| Location | Dong San Huan Zhong Lu (360m [1,200 ft.] south of Guomao Bridge on East Third Ring Rd.), Chaoyang East | |
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| Transportation | Metro: Guomao (122, exit C) | |
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| Reservations | Weekend reservations essential | |
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| Phone | 010/8771-7013 | |
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| Prices | Main courses ¥38-¥120 ($5-$12) | |
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| Credit Cards | AE, DC, MC, V | |