Planning a Trip
Getting There
Numerous directflightsconnect Xianyang Airport with all major cities in China, including Beijing, Shanghai, Chongqing, Chengdu, Kunming, Urumqi, Lhasa, and Hong Kong. TheCAAC office,located at Dongmen Wai, Shimao Dasha, (tel.029/8248-1111), will deliver airline tickets free of charge. Anairport shuttle bus(¥25/$3) leaves from the CAAC office on the hour from 5am to 5pm; aim to leave at least 2 hours before your flight. You can also book tickets through theXi'an Hua'an Airlinesticket office at Nan Dajie 60 (tel.029/8724-1503). Discounts are possible. Ataxifrom the airport into town costs about ¥150 to ¥180 ($18-$20).
Therailway stationis located outside the northeast side of the city wall, 20 minutes by double-decker bus no. 603 from the main hotel area. The station is open 24 hours, and all windows (except 15, 16, and 18) can be used. There is no longer a foreigners' counter, but window 17 should have an English speaker. Ticket refunds can be obtained from window 2. The fastest trains to Beijing are the T42 (14 hr.) at 6:02pm, and the T232 at 5:31pm. Other useful trains are the T140 to Shanghai (16 1/2 hr.) at 6:44pm; the K84 to Guangzhou (27 hr.) at 9:03am; the K119 to Lanzhou (9 hr.) at 10:32pm; the K165 at 11:10pm, which passes through Chengdu (14 hr.) and terminates in Kunming (36 hr.); the K60 to Zhengzhou (7 hr.) at 4:24pm; the T69 to Urumqi (31 hr.) at 8:21am; and the 2334 to Chongqing (14 hr.) at 2:16pm.
Thebus station(Xi'an Qiche Zhan;tel.029/8742-7420) is directly opposite the railway station. Regular buses connect with Zhengzhou (573km/355 miles; 9 hr.; ¥111/$13), Luoyang (425km/264 miles; 7 hr.; ¥65/$8), Taiyuan (685km/425 miles; 12 hr.; ¥128/$16), and Tianshui (380km/236 miles; 6 hr.; ¥60/$7.50). Six buses connect with Pingyao (7am-12:30pm; 8 hr.; ¥ 115/$14) and with Yan'an (402km/249 miles; 6 hr.; ¥52-¥68/$6.50-$8.50). Five afternoon sleeper buses connect with Yinchuan (720km/446 miles; 15 hr.; ¥110/$14).
Alternate Ways to Book Rail Tickets-- The station can get crowded, so either book tickets through your hotel, which will charge between ¥40 and ¥80 ($5-$10) to book a ticket, or visit a branch of theIndustrial and Commercial Bank of China (Gongshang Yinhang),which levies a reasonable ¥5 (65¢) service charge. The closest branch to the railway station is 1.6km (1 mile) south of the station at Wulukou Gonghang, Jiefang Lu 288; it's open weekdays from 8am to 6pm, and on weekends from 9am to 5pm. Thecity branchis cater-cornered to the Home Club Department Store at Mutou Shi 9 (tel.029/95588) and is open weekdays 8am to 8pm; weekends 9am to 3pm.
City Layout
The center of town is generally denoted by the massive MingBell Tower (Zhong Lou),which marks the crossroads between the main north-south and east-west roads -- which connect with the four main city gates. The main arteries areBei, Nan, Dong,andXi Dajie(North, South, East, and West aves.). Most of the main hotels, and many of the main sights and restaurants, are along these roads.
Getting Around
There are two ways to travel bybus.If there's no conductor, expect to pay a flat fare of ¥1 (15¢); no change is given. If there is a conductor, the fare ranges from ¥.50 to ¥2 (5¢-25¢).
Mosttaxisare green Santana sedans that charge ¥6 (75¢) for the first 3km (2 miles), then ¥1.40 (20¢) per additional kilometer; add ¥1 (15¢) if you're traveling between the hours of 10pm and 5am. Tiny Alto hatchbacks charge slightly less. You'll encounter few problems with drivers overcharging or failing to start the meter, but they will round the fare up or down to whole yuan, so don't sit around waiting for change.
Xi'an is flat and thus suitable forbiking,but the streets are congested, and any traffic rules that may exist are ignored by motorists. Only recommended for the experienced urban cyclist.
Tours
Many travel agencies and hotels offer 1-day tours of the sights around Xi'an. The most popular tour follows theEastern Route (Dong Xian),which usually includes theTerra-Cotta Warriors (Qin Bingmayong Bowuguan), Huaqing Chi (Huaqing Pools),andBanpo Bowuguan.The less-traveledWestern Route (Xi Xian)should include Famen Si, Qian Ling (Tang dynasty tombs), and perhaps Mao Ling (Han dynasty tombs) and Xianyang Bowuguan (Xianyang Museum); in this guide, we'll focus on the Eastern Route.
CITS,at Chang'an Bei Lu 48 (tel.029/8526-2066;fax 029/8526-7487; www.citsxa.com), offers the most reasonably priced tours in town, charging ¥260 ($30) for the Western Route, and ¥285 ($32) for the Eastern Route daily. They have a competent branch in the lobby of the Shenye Dasha, Jiefang Lu (tel. 029/8740-7066). Another option is theGolden Bridge Travel Serviceat Tiyuguan Lu 111 (tel.029/8761-6633;fax 029/8761-5577; gbtour@pub.xaonline.com), which charges ¥210 ($25) for the Eastern Route and ¥170 ($20) for the Western Route. Some major hotels offer their own tours.