Unlike many Chinese cities, Chengdu offers a variety of ways to pass the evening.Sichuan operais a favorite for foreign and Chinese tourists alike. Known for its humor and dynamism, an integral part of every performance isbianlianor "changing faces." The character is often a villain who changes his face to escape recognition. The reputed record is 14 changes in 24 seconds. Over its 300-year tradition, the trick has changed, but it has always been a closely guarded secret within the operatic community. Traditional stick puppets and flame balancing are also incorporated into the drama. Performances are at the teahouse next to the Jin Jiang Theater on Huaxing Zheng Lu on Saturday for ¥15 ($2.75). Performances are also held at the strictly-for-touristsShufeng Yayunin Wenhua Gongyuan, from 8 to 9:30pm; the fee is ¥80 ($10) and performances are held nightly. Take bus no. 25, 46, or 103 to Wenhua Gongyuan.
The highlight of Chengdu's nightlife is unquestionably theLotus Palace Bar and Restaurant(Lianhua fudi;tel.028/8553-7676;3pm-3am). Nestled halfway down Jinli Ancient Street, you'll first notice the red-and-black lacquered traditional style tables and chairs in a small courtyard to your left. The entrance to the bar itself is hidden behind two heavy black doors and walled in by a granite facade in the traditional Sichuan style. But once inside the designers have tweaked the traditional design with some modern license: red decor throughout the bar, a Perspex ceiling above the dance floor to see the night sky, silver faux bamboo hanging from the ceiling. Drink prices are reasonable (¥30/$3.75 for a beer or mixed drink) and, if you go early in the evening, the music is sufficiently loungey and good for enjoying a quiet drink; go later and the music gives way to heavier dance mix enjoyed by Chengdu's young, bright things. Even if the bar is not busy, it is worth a visit to see how China is trying to reclaim its cultural heritage -- without giving into kitsch.