Getting There-- The airport is 75km (47 miles) to the north.China Eastern Airlines(tel.0931/882-1964;fax 0931/882-8174; open 8am-9pm) has its main office opposite the JJ Sun Hotel. They can book tickets on any Chinese airline. Buses for the airport (1 hr.; ¥30/$3.60) leave 3 hours before each flight.
Queues at the newrailway station(tel.0931/492-2222) in the south of town can range from very short to very long. It's worth a shot to go directly here if you hoping to head out of town quickly. Sleeper tickets may also be purchased through your hotel; from various branches of the Industrial and Commercial Bank (Gong Hang; tel.0931/881-8544); or from the largest ticket outlet in the Railway Bureau (Tieluju) at Hezheng Lu 156, on the first floor of the Jinlun Dasha. Take bus no. 34 from the station to Tieluju.
Trains originating in Lanzhou connect with Beijing (T76: 6:56pm, 22 hr.; K44: 4:03pm, 27 hr.), Shanghai (T118: 12:05am, 25 hr.), Urumqi (T295: 4:25pm, 24 hr.,), Xi'an (K120: 8:40pm, 10 hr.), Guangzhou (K228: 9:25pm, 36 hr.), Chengdu (K348: 3:46pm, 22 hr.), Pingliang (N906: 7:32pm, 12 hr.), Jiayuguan (N907: 8:40pm, 14 hr.), Xining (T653: 8:25am, 3 hr.; T655: 3:43pm), and Golmud (N903: 5:49pm, 18 hr.). The speediest connection with Yinchuan is the N902 at 9:48pm (9 hr.).
Bus insurance,which costs ¥30 ($3.70) and is required for travel in Lanzhou, Xia He, and Hezuo, may be purchased fromChina Life(tel.0931/840-1757,ext. 8102) at Binhe Dong Lu 573; take bus no. 7 from the station to Qiao Nan Zhan, then continue west for about 360m (1,200 ft.). TheWest Bus Stationis at Xijin Dong Lu 486 (tel.0931/266-3285). Bus insurance (plus ¥10/$1.25 commission) may be purchased from counter 2, tickets from counter 3. Buses connect with Hezuo (258km/160 miles; 6 hr.; ¥32/$4 or ¥44/$5.40 Iveco) every half-hour from 7am; with Linxia (149km/92 miles; 4 hr.; ¥27/$3.20) every hour from 8:30am; and with Xining every hour from 7:30am. The final bus for these destinations is at 4pm. There are three direct buses to Xia He (256km/159 miles; 6 hr.) at 7:30am (¥45/$5.50); 8:30am and 2pm (¥44/$5.40); and three direct buses to Liujia Xia (2 hr.; ¥11/$1.30) at 7:30am, 8:30am, and 10am. Every other day there is a bus to Tongren (10 hr.; ¥38/$4.70).
Thelong-distance bus stationat Pingliang Lu 133 (tel.0931/456-2222) is just northwest of the railway station. Half-hourly buses connect with Xining from 7am to 7:30pm. Daily sleeper buses depart for Lhasa (5pm; ¥352/$44); Xi'an (5:30pm; 13 hr.; ¥130/$16); and Yan'an (5:30pm; 16 hr.; ¥169/$20).
Getting Around-- Green Santanas charge ¥7 (90¢) for the first 3km (2 miles), then ¥1.40 (20¢) per kilometer; add a night surcharge (¥1.60/20¢) from 10pm to 5am. Yellowmiandivans charge ¥5 (60¢) for the first 3km (2 miles), then ¥1 (15¢) per kilometer thereafter; and ¥1.20 (15¢) per kilometer from 10pm to 5am. Buses start at ¥1 (15¢), which is paid to a conductor. Bus no. 1 is useful; it starts at the railway station and passes the Bank of China, the JJ Sun Hotel, Northwest Airlines, Sunshine Plaza, and the Lanzhou Museum.
Tours-- Mosthotelshave tour desks which offer tours to Bingling Si. There are numerous branches ofCITS,each accusing the others of being illegitimate. A helpful branch is located at Luyou Dasha, Nongmin Xiang (tel.0931/881-9394).