Fuli
Located along the Li River downstream from Yangshuo, the village of Fuli, first established over 1,300 years ago during the Tang dynasty, is a popular excursion either by boat or bike. Most travelers seem to prefer the latter for the gorgeous scenery along the 6km (4-mile) ride, especially now that the Pavilion has opened at Liu Gong. Fuli holds amarketevery 3 days and while there's not much to buy for tourists (but potentially a lot to lose to pickpockets -- be careful!), there's enough local color here to take an hour or so of your time. Just before the market is a lane that winds past traditional stone houses down to the river. To cycle to Fuli, head east on Pantao Lu past the traffic circle and follow the road across the bridge. You can also take a bus from the station on Pantao Lu.
Xingping
Surrounded by a jungle of karst pinnacles, the charming, as yet unspoiled village of Xingping about 25km (15 miles) upstream of Yangshuo is being touted by some as the next Yangshuo, meaning the next backpackers' haven, now that Yangshuo has become more of a commercialized circus. Cobblestone streets wend their ways through this quaint village of stone houses that's refreshingly free of souvenir stores, and residents go about their daily business with nary a glance spared for the visitor. The most scenic area is the riverfront; on market days you'll see villagers from the surrounding areas boarding boats laden with everything from live chickens to new aluminum woks. A few cafes and backpackers' hostels have sprung up here, but accommodations and dining are still fairly basic. There are regular buses to Xingping from the Yangshuo bus station, or you can ride your bike here in 3 to 4 hours.
An interesting side trip from Xingping is toYucun(literally "Fishing Village"), a tiny, picturesque Ming dynasty village (1506-21) 20 minutes downstream along the Li River, whose more famous visitors have included Sun Yat-sen in 1921 and Bill Clinton in 1998. Full of traditional Ming and Qing dynasty houses with white walls and gray-tiled roofs with upturned eaves, as well as the occasional ancestral hall, the village requires a ¥5 (60¢) entrance fee which includes a tour by a Chinese-speaking local. Daily boats make the 20-minute trip to Yucun for ¥25 ($3) round-trip. They depart Xingping's waterfront between 8am and 5:30pm (the ticket booth is to the right at the end of the main street), but boats only depart with a quorum of 10, which sometimes can mean a wait of hours in low season. The gorgeous boat ride between Xingping and Yucun, however, is generally worth the bit of hassle in getting there.
Yulong He (Jade Dragon River)
One of the loveliest trips outside Yangshuo, this river, sometimes dubbedXiao Li Jiang (Lesser Li River),is, if anything, even more beautiful and certainly quieter than the Li. The river's more famous landmarks may be its bridges, in particular the 59m-long (194-ft.) Ming dynastyYulong Qiao (Jade Dragon Bridge)found in the town ofBaisha,but it's the scenery of small villages nestled at the foot of karst hills surrounded by rice paddies and a lazy winding river that most visitors remember long after they've left. Many of the travelers' cafes offer full-day tours of the river and surrounding sights, but it's entirely possible to visit on your own. Just pack a picnic, plenty of film, and rain gear, check your bike's tire pressure, and you're off.
There are several routes by which to explore the river. From Yangshuo, head out towards Moon Hill. Before the bridge crossing the Yulong He, head right on the dirt trail which can, with several deviations, take you all the way up to Baisha and the Jade Dragon Bridge. You can return along these back paths, or head back from Baisha on the main Guilin-Yangshuo highway. Or reverse the order and take the highway to Baisha (9km/6 miles from Yangshuo), then cycle back down through the villages. Chances are you'll get lost on some of these paths, that can narrow to the width of your bicycle (so get off and walk carefully or you may end up in the mud!), but that's half the fun. Not to worry, the villagers around here are more than happy to set you right, and there are enough paths between the river and the highway that you won't be lost for long.
Alternatively, some travelers have sailed back down the Yulong He on narrow bamboo rafts for ¥100 to ¥200 ($12-$25), though I don't advise it. Several years ago, there was a boating fatality involving a foreigner in the lower reaches of the river. Because new rules requiring passengers to wear safety jackets seem to be honored more in the breach, this is a risky undertaking at best. Some travelers have settled for sailing down a very short, relatively smooth stretch of the river from Baisha, but even this involves having to get off the raft occasionally so it can be poled down the bigger bumps.
The full journey to Yulong Qiao may be a bit much for some, especially in the summer when heat stroke and sun burn are serious threats on a journey as long as this. A less exhausting alternative is to stop off atYangshuo Shengdi (Mountain Retreat)on the way. Built by a successful American businessman just 5 years ago, this is one of China's true gems and has possibly the best location in the province. Rooms are a good size with massive picture windows and balconies to take advantage of views that are some of the best in the world. The retreat itself has a Confucian academy-type feel to it and is especially popular with corporate groups. Located on Wang Gong Shan Jiao in Gaotian, Yangshuo, you can contact the hotel by phone (tel.0773/877-7091), fax 0773/877-709, or online at www.yangshuomountainretreat.com. Standard rooms go for ¥200 ($25), while a deluxe room costs ¥500 ($62).
Taking a Dip in the Yulong --For those who'd prefer not to float down the entire length of the Yulong, here is an alternative. Mountain Retreat's public relations manager led me down to the river bank where boatmen where playing some kind of noisy brag. For ¥10 ($1.25), one of them agreed to pole us the hundred meters or so up to the next weir, where we promptly jumped off the raft, and spent the rest of the afternoon swimming. Even the boatman stripped down to his skivvies and jumped in with us. So many tourists float down this stretch of water, two rafts even feature an onboard PC and printer, with locals taking digital pictures for a small fee. The Retreat's manager told me that swimming like this was her summertime morning routine, a half-hour dip before returning for breakfast and fresh orange juice. Certainly one of my China highlights!