Koreans first fled across the border to Yanbian, a seldom-visited area of greener-than-green hills and fertile fields nestled in the northeastern corner of Jilin Province, after the first of several severe famines struck the Korean peninsula in 1869.
Subsequent diasporas in the 20th century, the result of continued food shortages and a pair of brutal Japanese occupations, turned the area into what many now call the Third Korea. Now officially called the Yanbian Chaoxian (Korean) Autonomous Prefecture, it is home to the largest population of ethnic Koreans outside the peninsula itself.
Many parts of Yanbian have only recently been opened to tourists, and even those areas that have been open for years see few Westerners. Facilities are minimal and English almost nonexistent. But people adventurous enough to travel here can enjoy one of Dongbei's most peacefully stunning landscapes -- a sublime combination of Scotland and Japan -- and interact with one of China's only truly bicultural societies.
The capital of Yanbian isYanji,a rapidly developing city where all of the street signs, and most of the residents, are bilingual. Bland and somewhat rigid, its chief value is as a base for journeys to the surrounding countryside, Chang Bai Shan, and the North Korean border.
A late-afternoon bus ride through theYanbian countryside, as sunlight glitters on fields of rice and warms the upturned roofs of Korean huts, is one of the most exquisite experiences available in the Northeast. The best excuse to take such a ride isFangchuan,a tiny town at the end of a needle-thin strip of Chinese territory between North Korea and Russia, and China's preeminent border-viewing spot. A view from the tower here (¥20/$3) provides vistas of Russia, North Korea and, on a clear day, the northern edge of Japan. You have two choices as to how to get there: public transportation or taxi. Ataxiwill save you a lot of hassle; a round-trip ride from Yanji to Fangchuan costs ¥400 ($50). You can have the driver wait for you while you sightsee. Have the driver wait outside the ticketing area or pay an additional ¥10 ($1.25) to take the car all the way to the tower. Otherwise, from the Yanji railway station, catch the 6:30am bus to Hunchun (2 1/2 hr.; ¥21/$3). Once you arrive in Hunchun, take a (¥2/25¢ pedicab ride to the Hunchun's Zonghe Shichang, where you can take a minibus (¥10/$1.25 one-way) to the border's edge. It will drop you off about 3km (2 miles) from the viewing tower in Fangchuan, but you can bribe them a few extra dollars to take you farther. Be certain to ask about the availability of return buses to Hunchun, as schedules are virtually nonexistent and service is largely determined by whether or not there are enough passengers to fill a bus.
Warning:North Koreans continue to flow into Yanbian, but without official permission. Though identity checks aren't as strict as they used to be, it is always a good idea to carry your passport with you at all times.
Getting There-- Trains connect Yanji to both Beijing (10:40am; 24 hr.; ¥322/$40) and Changchun (two daily; 9 1/2 hr.; ¥119/$15).Therailway station (Yanji Zhan)is to the south, at the end of Zhan Qian Jie; the ticket office is open from 4:30am to 10:30pm.Busesto Chang Bai Shan and towns in the countryside leave from the Dongbeiya Keyun Zhan (on Chang Bai Lu, northeast of railway station); the ticket office is open from 5am to 4:30pm. Buses also leave from the railway station parking lot.Flightsto Beijing (four daily; ¥970/$121) and Seoul (Mon, Wed, and Fri; ¥2,540/$318) depart from a small airport 6km (3 3/4 miles) west of the railway station; a taxi ride there costs ¥10 ($1.25). Taxis do not use meters; rides are either ¥5/65¢ or ¥10/$1.25, depending on distance. Negotiate the price before you get in. Purchase flight tickets at theCAAC ticket office(tel.0433/291-5555;open 8am-9pm) inside the Xiangyu Dajiudian above the Yanxin Bridge, north of the railway station.
Where to Stay & Dine-- Yanji's most convenient hotel is theDongbeiya Dajiudian(Chang Bai Lu 109; tel.0433/290-9222;fax 0433/282-0970), next to the long-distance bus station on Chang Bai Lu. Avoid old rooms in the tower; go instead for clean and spacious units (¥488/$61 standard room) in the new building in back. The joint-ventureYanbian Daewoo (Yanbian Dayu Fandian), Juzi Jie 272, 3km (2 miles) north of the post office (tel.0433/290-5050;fax 0433/265-7701), is Yanji's largest and most luxurious hotel. The small but tasteful rooms cost ¥800 ($100) and come with breakfast. Yanji's food specialty is Koreanlengmian(cold noodles),semitranslucent wheat noodles served in a cold broth with various toppings. Two restaurants compete for the title of bestlengmianrestaurant in town:Jindalai Fandian(Hailan Lu 42, at Xinhua Jie; tel.0433/252-8590), andFuwu Dalou(Guangming Jie 38; tel.0433/251-8668). The latter offers less of a third-grade cafeteria ambience, but both serve a meanMin Su lengmian(¥10/$1.25 for a large bowl), the classic cold noodle bowl served with pickled cabbage, beef, pine nuts, and Korean chili paste garnished with an apple slice. Both restaurants are open from 8:30am to 10pm.