For decent and inexpensive local and Western fare, head to the travelers' cafes in the southern part of town. The most popular of the lot is the cozyTibet Cafeat Changzheng Lu near the Martyr's Cemetery (tel.0887/823-0282). It serves Western staples like pancakes, pasta, and pizza, along with Naxi and Tibetan specialties (try the yak steak or the hearty fried bread stuffed with yak meat). Main courses cost ¥10 to ¥20 ($1.25-$2.50).The Snowland Restaurant (Xue Yu Kafeiting),near the Tibet Hotel, does very reliable breakfasts and the owners are a mine of information for places to visit both in and outside the town. Around Heping Lu and Jiantang Lu are a number of food stalls and small restaurants that serve Hui Muslim, Sichuan, and home-style(jiachang cai)Chinese food; none, however, have English menus.