Getting There
Zhongdian is connected byflightsto Kunming (50 min.; daily), Chengdu (1 hr., 10 min.; 3-4 flights a week), and Lhasa (1 hr., 45 min.; 1-2 flights a week depending on season). To fly to Lhasa, you must have your Tibet travel permit in order. Tickets can be purchased at theYunnan Airlines/CAACoffice at Wenming Jie next to the Guanguang Hotel (tel.0887/822-9901); it's open from 8:30am to noon and 3 to 8pm (2-5:30pm in winter). Taxi fare to the airport about 6km (4 miles) south of town will cost ¥15 to ¥20 ($1.90-$2.50).
From theBus Station (Keyun Zhan)on Changzheng Lu (tel0887/822-2972),busesrun to Kunming (9-10 hr.; ¥142-¥175/$17-$21) at 9am, and then hourly from 11am to 8pm; to Xiaguan (8 hr.; ¥42-¥65/$5-$8) every hour from 7am to 8pm; to Li Jiang (3 1/2-5 hr.; ¥27/$3.25) every half-hour to hour from 7:10am to 5pm; to Deqin (7 hr.; ¥30/$3.75) at 7:20am, 8:20am, and 9:20am; to Xiangcheng (9 hr.) at 7:30am; to Jinjiang (10 hr.) at 3:30pm and 5pm; and to Sanba (5-6 hr; ¥20/$2.50) at 8:30am. The 3:30pm bus to Jinjiang will get you there in time to connect with the train to Chengdu. There has been talk of moving the bus station to the northern part of town along Zhongxiang Lu, so check beforehand.
To Tibet-- You can only travel overland to Tibet by Land Cruiser as part of an official travel agency group with all the requisite Tibet travel permits. If you haven't made prior reservations by the time you arrive in Zhongdian, check first at the travelers' cafes. During the summer, there may be enough interest to pull together a group, but it'll likely cost around ¥5,000 ($625) per person just for transportation and the permit. From Zhongdian, the overland route passes through Deqin, the last border town in Yunnan, another 6 to 8 hours away by car. Any questions about Tibet travel permits can be referred to Mr. Lin at the Tibet Tourism Office .
To Sichuan-- The back roads into Sichuan from Zhongdian are no less scenic or any more comfortable than the road to Tibet, but at least you won't have to worry about permits. Busing it to Chengdu will take at least 6 to 7 days over some very high altitudes (above 4000m/13,120 ft.) and incredibly gorgeous terrain. Hiring a private car will cost around ¥800 to ¥1,200 ($100-$150). From Zhongdian, a 7:30am bus departs every 2 to 3 days for Xiangcheng in Sichuan; the trip takes 10 hours. From Xiangcheng, the route continues to Daocheng or Litang, depending on weather and road conditions, then to Kanding (11 hr. from Litang), and finally to Chengdu (a further 8 hr.).
Return to Dali-- The alternative route back to Dali that does not stop at Li Jiang, is an interesting option for those heading back south. Leaving at 12:30pm and costing ¥42 ($5), the 6-hour journey starts on the Tibetan plateau and passes a surprising number of breeding centers for the shaggy Tibetan Mastiff, perhaps the only dog in the world with a hardier constitution than a St. Bernard. The road then drops away and descends through endless forest switchbacks, past numerous new hydro plants. After some breathtaking precipices, the surroundings turn agricultural once more and the roads turn to yellow as local farmers spread their rice husks across the road, to be conveniently winnowed by passing minibuses such as yours. Most travelers are very surprised by the huge amounts of one particular crop that grows in this province -- opium's natural successor, tobacco.
Getting Around
Around town,taxis(unmetered) cost ¥5 (60¢) per trip. Bus no. 3 (¥1)/15¢) runs from the Tibet Hotel up the main thoroughfare, Changzheng Lu, all the way to Songzanlin Si.
Tours
CITSat Changzheng Lu (tel.0887/823-0152) just north of the bus station offers day tours (in Chinese only) to the surrounding areas. A group package to Songzanlin Si, Bita Hai, and Napa Hai will run ¥110 to ¥150 ($14-$19). Information on local sights and travel to Tibet and Sichuan can be picked up at theTibet Cafeat Changzheng Lu (tel.0887/823-0282). Mr. Lin at theTibet Tourism Office(tel.0887/688-3996;mobile 013988717676688) in the Xiangbala Hotel can arrange Tibet travel permits.
Fast Facts
Banks, Foreign Exchange & ATMs-- ThePeople's Bank of China(Zhou Renmin Yinhang;open Mon-Tues and Thurs-Fri, 8:30am-noon and 2:30-5:30pm) is on Changzheng Lu. It offers forex, but it won't give cash advances on credit cards.
Internet Access--China Telecomon Changzheng Lu 9 has Internet service from 9am to 9pm, at ¥3 (40¢) per hour. Dial-up is tel.163.
Post Office-- The post office (open 8:30am-8:30pm, 9am-8pm in the winter) is at the corner of Chengzheng Lu and Xiangyang Lu and has a nice collection of stamps and cards at very low prices.
Visa Extensions-- The visa section of theGonganju(PSB;Mon-Fri: 8:30-11:30am and 2:30-6pm summer; 9am-noon and 2-5:30pm winter) is located at Changzheng Lu 72 just south of the Diqing Binguan.