About 39km (24 miles) west of Tsetang, on the northern banks of theYarlung Tsangpo (Brahmaputra River),stands Tibet's first monastery (late 8th c.), famous for its striking mandala design and as the site of the "Great Debate" (792-94) between the Indian Mahayanists and Chan (Japanese: Zen) Buddhists from China. This intriguing and protracted religious debate, held in theWestern Temple (Jampa Ling),ended in victory for the Mahayanists. A predictable result, as Tibet was at war with China on several fronts. Chinese records claim that they won the theological battle, but the numerous Chinese monks and translators were nonetheless expelled from Tibet, and Mahayanist orthodoxy was established. Although Samye has been razed several times, the mandala symmetry is intact. The main temple,Samye Utse,symbolizes Mount Meru, the center of the universe, surrounded by the four temples of the continents, the eight temples of each subcontinent, and the sun (south, ruined) and moon (north) temples. The best view is gained fromHepo-Rito the east of Samye, where Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) is said to have subdued the local demons, making the site safe for construction. The secular support of King Trisong Detsen, who proclaimed Buddhism the state religion in 779, was perhaps more crucial.
Samye Utse(¥40/$5; open 8am-5:30pm) demonstrates the classic principles of Tibetan architecture. A solid barnlike first floor tapers to refined and intricate upper tiers. To left of the entrance is an original 5m-tall (16-ft.) obelisk that proclaims Buddhism to be the state religion and urges future generations to obey Buddhist law and support the temple. Many of the murals on the first and second floors are original, but the lighting is poor, so bring a flashlight.
Basic accommodations are available at theSamye Monastery Guesthouse(tel.0891/736-2086) for ¥20 to ¥35 ($2.40-$4.20). Adequate fare is offered in the restaurant, which has an English menu.