Shigatse bazaarstands in the shadow of the ruins, and aside from catering to the tourists, it has changed little. Khampa and Hui vendors hawk large knives, wooden tea bowls, prayer wheels, "bronze" statues, "ancient" coins, Tibetan medicine, incense from Calcutta, and cowboy hats and boots. The best-stocked supermarket isSifang Chaoshion Zhufeng Lu (tel.0892/883-7012), open from 9am to 11pm.