A recent boom in hotels in Dandong means that travelers have a lot more choices and bargaining power. The recently renovatedJiangbin Hotel(Yanjiang Kaifaqu Fangba 5 Hao Lou; tel.0415/315-3748;fax 0415/314-2835; Visa accepted) is the best value in town, with stylish, modern rooms -- complete with computer and free Internet access -- facing the river (¥300-¥600/$37-$74; 20% discount available). Just down the street is theKairida Hotel(Yanjiang Kaifaqu Fangba 1 Hao Lou; tel.0415/345-9995) a small boutique property that caters to Korean guests. The rooms and bathrooms are small but clean and modern (¥320-¥600/$39-$74; no credit cards). The city's only four-star hotel is theZhonglian Dajiudian(Shangmao Luyou Qu A Qu 1; tel.0415/317-0666;fax 0415/317-0888; www.zlhotel.com.cn), located opposite the Yalu Jiang Qiao. The hotel offers a nice Western food buffet, a bowling center, a cigar lounge, and surprisingly large rooms with generously sized beds and impeccable bathrooms (¥489-¥658/$60-$80; AE, DC, MC, V accepted). The hotel cafe looks onto North Korea. Across the street is the three-starGuomen Jiudian(Bianjing Jingji Hezuo Qu Huiyou Huayuan 1; tel.0415/315-7788;fax 0415/315-722; (¥498-¥528/$50-$66; no credit cards). Guest rooms lack any character, but at least they come with a pair of binoculars which you can use to gaze at North Korea from rooms overlooking the river. Bathrooms are kept clean and the service is surprisingly good. Management, however, won't offer much of a discount.