Lugu Hu (Lugu lake)
Located about 210km (126 miles) northeast of Li Jiang in the Ninglang Autonomous County (Ninglang Xian) at the juncture of Yunnan and Sichuan provinces, the pristine and breathtakingLugu Hu (Lugu Lake)is the home of the Mosu ("Mosuo" in Mandarin) -- the only practicing matriarchal society in the world, with a population of 36,000 -- and a smaller number of Tibetans and Yi. The relatively remote lake is at least a 5-hour trip by car (up to 8 hr. by minibus with a change in Ninglang) from Li Jiang, and it used to be that only anthropologists and a handful of curious travelers would make the trip. However, as word got out about the unusual Mosu, new roads were built and Chinese visitors have been arriving by the busloads, usually as part of a 2-day tour from Li Jiang. It's an interesting world, where women doallof the work, from child raising to cooking, from planting to governing, and the men are defined by their roles not as fathers but as uncles to the children in their mother's household. On the 25th day of the seventh lunar month (Aug or Sept), the Mosu celebrate their biggest festival, Zhuan Shan Jie (Mountain-Circling Festival) at the Gemu Nushen Shan (Goddess Gemu Mountain) on the shores of Lugu Lake.
Despite the increasingly crass commercialization and crowds, Lugu Lake is still worth visiting, though an overnight stay is required. Most of the Chinese tour groups arrive in the afternoon and depart after breakfast the next morning, leaving you a good part of the day to explore, take a boat ride on the lake, or engage a Mosu in conversation, all in relative peace before the next batch of tourists arrives in the afternoon.
The 70-sq.-km (27-sq.-mile) freshwater lake (admission ¥35/$4.40) is dotted with many Mosu log cabins, though these have been replaced by three- and four-story hotels in the main village ofLuoshui Cunon the western shore. The lake is surrounded by mountains, with theGemu Nushen Shanin the north and the hills of Sichuan's Yanyuan County across the lake in the east. Colorfully clothed Mosu women can row visitors in "pig-trough"(zhucao)boats, for approximately ¥35 ($4.25) per person, out to the two major islands in the lake:Liwubi DaoandHeiwae Dao.A smallmuseumnext to the bus station on the main strip has displays (in Chinese only) of Mosu artifacts and hosts evening Mosu song and dance performances. The owners of theHusi Teahouse,transplants from Chongqing themselves, are a great source of information on local activities and often lead hikes around the lake. Farther on,Yongningis home to several more Mosu villages worth exploring.
Getting There-- Short of joining an organized tour (which travel agencies in Li Jiang can arrange), the easiest way to get out to the lake on your own is by private car or taxi hire (5 1/2 hr.; ¥500-¥600/$62-$75 round-trip); you'll have to pay for the driver's food and accommodations separately. Otherwise, take a Ninglang-bound bus from Li Jiang's main bus station, then transfer to a Luoshui-bound minibus (2-2 1/2 hr.; ¥20/$2.50). Leaving Luoshui, a Li Jiang-bound bus (¥43/$5) leaves the bus station(keyun zhan)along the lakeshore at 7:30am. Alternatively, take a minivan taxi to Ninglang for ¥20 ($2.50), and then catch a connecting bus back to Li Jiang (every hour 7am-3pm).
Where to Stay & Dine-- A decent option close to the lake is the relatively newAxia Nongjia Yuan(Axia Farmer's House;tel.0888/588-6066), located behind the museum between the lake and the main road. It has 12 clean standard rooms with attached bathrooms for ¥200 ($25), with a 50% discount in low season. Staying along the waterfront is the most pleasant option, but the log cabin guesthouses for ¥10 to ¥15 ($1.25-$2) per bed are very basic, with communal showers and toilets. TheMosuo Yuan(tel.0888/588-1188) along the lakeshore is one of the larger guesthouses and is relatively clean. Guesthouse owners can cook you dinner for about ¥10 to ¥20 ($1.25-$2.50). In the evenings, barbecue stalls set up along the waterfront, where you can get any variety of grilled meats and vegetables. TheHusi Teahousealong the waterfront offers coffees, teas, juices, and basic but tasty Chinese fare.