Cang Shan (Green Mountains)
Running down the west side of Dali, the 42km-long (25-mile) Cang Shan mountain range with its 19 peaks (a number of them permanently snow-covered), 18 streams, and acres of verdant forests, is well worth exploring. The easiest way to ascend the mountain is by chairlift, a lovely ride ¥28 ($3.50) up, ¥20 ($2.50) down, that offers some of the loveliest vistas of the old town and the shimmering blue Er Hai Lake in the distance. (From the western gate of the old town, head north until you see the sign for the chairlift; or take a taxi for ¥5 to ¥8 (60¢-$1). At the chairlift's upper terminus isZhonghe Si,a not particularly memorable temple. The sign for theHighlander Guest House(tel.0872/266-1599;www.higherland.com/index2.htm) says 100m (328 ft.), what it doesn't say is that it's 100m straight up. At the moment the place has superb potential and will one day be a star attraction, but not yet. Several trails branch out from Zhonghe Si. One option if you don't have time to make a day of it is the trek through pretty terrain toFengyan Dong (Phoenix Cave),which takes you through the back of Longquan Mountain (about an hour each way). There's also a vigorous 11km (7-mile), 4 1/2- to 5-hour hike toGantong Si,a temple first built in 900 on the southern slope of Yingsheng Peak. The road down the mountain from Gantong Temple will take you back to the main road, from where you can take a taxi or bus no. 4 back to Dali. Another trail leads to the lovelyQingbi Xiin the valley between Malong and Shengying peaks. Flowing through three large ponds, this stream eventually empties into Er Hai.
Er Hai Hu (Er Hai Lake)
East of Dali and north of Xiaguan, Er Hai Hu, literally named after its resemblance to a human ear(er),is one of the seven largest freshwater lakes in China and the second largest in Yunnan after Dian Chi in Kunming. Originating in the Heigu Shan mountains to the northwest and fed partially by the 18 streams of Cang Shan, the lake spans 42km (25 miles) from north to south, and 7km (4 miles) from east to west, and has an average depth of 10m (33 ft.). There are many settlements and towns scattered around the lake, along with some tourist traps on the eastern side.Warning:Some recent travelers have reported that the lake was unsafe for swimming as it contained the schistosomiasis (bilharzia) parasite; unfortunately, accurate up-to-date information on the situation is hard to come by.
However, aboat rideon the beautiful lake is one of the highlights of a visit to Dali. Several ferries cross the lake, from Longkan to Haidong, Cai Cun to Wase, and Xiaguan to Jinsuo Dao. Giant tourist boats charge ¥90 ($11) to make a 3 1/2- to 4-hour run of the lake from the Taoyuan Matou (dock) in Zhou Cheng to Xiaguan, stopping along the way atPutuo Dao, Guanyin Ge (Guanyin Pavilion),andJinsuo Dao,an island full of caves and caverns and inhabited by Bai fishermen. You can also negotiate with smaller private boats, which charge an average of ¥100 to ¥200 ($13-$25) for the round-trip; or get a travelers' cafe in town to help you with any special arrangements.
About 7km (4 miles) north of Xizhou, the village ofZhou Chengis famous for itstie-dyed batiks. The minute you step off the bus, you'll be approached by Bai women who will invite you to visit their batik workshops. This is worth considering, as you can often pick up batik tablecloths or shirts for considerably less than you would pay in the shops in Dali -- subject to bargaining, of course. There is also a localmarketin the center of town; uphill from there, part of the old town is worth exploring. Catch an Eryuan-bound bus from either Dali or Xizhou.