Getting There-- The road from Tashkurgan to Kashgar was under repair at press time, so what is currently a 12-hour nightmare will someday be a smooth 6-hour journey. Roughly two-thirds of the way to Tashkurgan isKarakul Lake,over which towers the magnificentMustagh Ata.Buses leave for Karakul and Tashkurgan starting at 9:30am at Kashgar's Diqu Bus Station. The cost is ¥44 ($5). Or you could consider renting a Land Cruiser and driver for four people for between ¥800 and ¥1,000 ($100-$125) for 2 days. The icy lake is surrounded by yurts that take in visitors. Room and board can be negotiated for ¥40 ($5) per person, but many of the locals are quite pushy. If you encounter this, just walk on; there are plenty of other yurts. Highly recommended are the yurts that you'll come across before you get to the parking lot and official entrance of the lake, where they'll charge you ¥50 ($6) for a "ticket" to Karakul. You can hop on the back of a motorbike and ride around the lake for ¥20 ($2.50).Warning:Do not camp alone -- recently, an Italian tourist almost met an untidy end here. Returning to Kashgar from Karakul may be a little trickier -- buses are supposed to stop on their way back from Tashkurgan, but they'll often plow ahead without stopping. You can try your luck at noon, when one bus is supposed to come by, and then at 1pm.
Beyond Karakul is the town ofSubash (Subashi),starting point for hikes to Mustagh Ata. It may be possible to stay here, as a less-touristed alternative to Karakul Lake. Beyond Subash, there is a magnificent moraine valley, a highlight of the trip. Buses return to Kashgar at 9:30am for ¥62 ($7.70). There is a cheaper local bus, but you will not be allowed to buy a ticket for it. You can continue toSostfor ¥225 ($28); the 8-hour trip arrives in town in late afternoon after many inspections.