Chaos. The clanging dishes and shouting staff are too theatrical for this to be authentic Beijing dining, but it's as close as you'll get. Decor is a cheap attempt to re-create the feel of Old Beijing, with cut red paper substituting for real lanterns and eaves covered in cardboard tile, but cheapness is part of the atmosphere. Best by far are the servers, who rush about like madmen, pouring tea and clearing tables with a controlled, smiling fury. The kitchen produces a fine version of local favoritejingjiang rousi(shredded pork rolled in tofu skin with scallion) and slightly sweetjiaoliu wanzi(crisp-fried pork balls). They also serve some of therealstuff, traditional dishes only the oldest of natives still eat, like the pungentyangrou madoufu, a mound of mashed tofu and whole soybeans drizzled in "lamb oil," and the simplezha guan chang(taro chips with garlic sauce).
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| Cuisine | Beijing | |
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| Hours | Daily 9am-9:30pm | |
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| Address | Guangxi Men Beili 20 | |
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| Location | In Xiba He area northeast of the Chongqing Fandian (look for plaster Old Beijing couple in window), Chaoyang East | |
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| Phone | 010/6422-1078 | |
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| Prices | Meal for 2 ¥40-¥60 ($5-$8) | |
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| Credit Cards | Not accepted | |